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Compression Test and Leak-Down Test: How to Do Them

How to do a compression test and a leak-down test, how to read the results, what low compression in one cylinder means and what the wet test shows.

A compression test measures how much pressure each cylinder builds when the engine cranks, using a gauge screwed into the spark plug hole. Healthy cylinders read close to each other; one low cylinder points to a leak past the rings, a valve or the head gasket. A leak-down test then pressurizes that cylinder with shop air and shows where the air escapes, which pins down the cause.

How to do a compression test

  1. Warm the engine up, then switch it off.
  2. Disable the fuel and ignition systems as your service manual describes, usually by removing the fuel pump fuse and ignition fuse or coil connectors.
  3. Remove all the spark plugs so the engine cranks evenly.
  4. Screw the gauge into the first cylinder, hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine for about four to six compression strokes.
  5. Record the highest reading, release the gauge and repeat for every cylinder.

Reading the results

  • Compare cylinders: the spread between them matters more than the absolute number. A common guide is that all cylinders should be within about 10% of each other; use your engine’s specification where available.
  • One low cylinder: a ring, valve or head gasket problem on that cylinder.
  • Two neighboring low cylinders: often a head gasket leak between them; see signs of a blown head gasket.
  • All low: general wear, incorrect cam timing or a test problem such as a closed throttle.

Wet compression test

Squirt a teaspoon of engine oil into a low cylinder and test again. If the reading rises noticeably, the oil is sealing worn rings; see piston rings. If it barely changes, suspect a valve or the head gasket.

Leak-down test

Bring the cylinder to top dead center on its compression stroke, connect a leak-down tester to shop air and the plug hole, and read the percentage of air escaping. Then listen for where it goes:

  • Air from the intake or throttle body: intake valve.
  • Air from the tailpipe: exhaust valve.
  • Air from the oil filler or dipstick tube: piston rings.
  • Bubbles in the coolant: head gasket or a cracked head.

As a general guide, low single-digit leakage is very healthy and readings that climb past roughly 20% deserve attention, but compare cylinders and follow the tester maker’s guidance.

What next?

A misfire on a low cylinder is common; see engine misfire. Valve and head gasket problems are head work; worn rings or damaged pistons mean the short block. When the repair is too large, compare a replacement short block or long block on our engines page; short block vs long block explains the difference.

More guides: low compression in one cylinder · compression ratio vs compression test · bent pushrod symptoms.

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